Phileas French

Travel Writer

Phileas French

Phileas French

Travel Writer | Exploring every country in the world, one adventure at a time

National Art Museum and Pushkin's House, Chisinau

I almost walked past the National Art Museum because it's currently under restoration...

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It's not entirely closed, though, and for 10 Leu it was worth wandering around. It seems to be set in a slightly dilapidated mansion, but boasts a few pieces, including this haunting painting, The Cranes Have Left, by Mihai Grecu.

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I was rather taken with these jovial monks, too...

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I only had to share this national museum with two other people, and it's a nice respite from the busy streets and wintry slush underfoot.

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I was absolutely determined to get to the Pushkin House Museum but given how hard it is to find, I guess he didn't have many visitors...

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After a lot of baffled wandering near Strada Alexandru cel Bun, I stumbled across it. As in, I am now unable to describe how I actually found it, which I know isn't very helpful. I was gutted to find it all locked up on my arrival. After rattling at locked doors and creeping around the perimeter, I went to take some snaps over the garden wall.

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To my surprise I spotted a few guests inside the courtyard, and raced back around and hovered until a staff member emerged from a doorway and let me in. She turned out to be Helen, a wonderfully learned guide with extraordinarily good and helpful English. After the strange start finding it and getting in, the museum was a real treat. I was particularly taken with the small room inside a former inn where the young Pushkin slept and wrote, always near the picture he brought with him of his idol Lord Byron. It's extraordinary that he spent years living with his uncle and servant in this tiny building.

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I'm disappointed not to be making it this time to the sister Pushkin museum in the Moldovan countryside, where Pushkin fell in love with the beautiful and doomed gypsy Zamfira, although the Chisinau building houses some intriguing memorabilia of his fortnight at the gypsy camp. I can see why this is described as a must-see. After the long walk I treated myself to some black tea and the best cheese quiche I've ever eaten at Crème de la Crème.

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Something to line my stomach before wine-tasting at Carpe Diem...

Phileas French
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Comments 1

Guest - Free Piano on Thursday, 19 March 2015 18:30

Free Piano

Hello :-) Your blog looks good. have a nice day. the blog was absolutely fantastic!

Free Piano Hello :-) Your blog looks good. have a nice day. the blog was absolutely fantastic!
Guest
Thursday, 24 May 2018